Textile and process of making same



Nov. 20, 1945. c, cAsTELLAN 2,389,120

TEXTILE AND PROCESS OF MAKING SAME Filed Dec. 8, 1943 F/LLING I N VENTOR.

Patented Nov. 20, 19 45 TEXTILE AND PROCESS OF MAKING SAME Carl A.Castellan, Wilmington, Del., asslgnor to American Viscose Corporation,

Wilmington,

Del., a corporation of Delaware Application December 8, 1943, Serial No.513,335

18 Claims.

The invention relates in general to textiles and, in particular, to amethod for stabilizing the structure and form of fabrics and to thestabilized textiles produced, and includes correlated improvementsdesigned to enhance the characteristics and uses of such textiles.

In the conventional method of knitting and weaving fabrics, the yarnsare subjected to ten-' sion. This is done to secure proper operation ofthe knitting and weaving machines and to secure uniformity in thefinished product. The fibers and yarns constituting the fabric in itsunfinished state (i. e., in greige goods) are in a condition of stressor stretch, and hence tend to shrink under any circumstances that permitor facilitate movement and contraction of the fibers or filaments.

Fabrics made in such a manner exhibit the tendency to shrink whensubjected to wet treatment such as may be encountered in finishingoperations. However, by the conventional methods of handling fabrics,part or all of the shrinkage so acquired may be offset or lost throughmechanical strain and stretch that the fabric encounters in passingthrough these operations. Consequently, when the goods are again wetout,

such as in laundering, they will again exhibit the tendency to shrinkmore or less in both the warp direction and the filling direction,dependent on the degree of stretch present after finishing. The tendencyto shrink will continue until the stretched condition of both the warpand filling threads has been relieved or until a balanced state ofweaving contraction is obtained.

It has been proposed to provide a method of treatment that will shrinkthe fabric in both directions, in a manner analogous to the shrinkageotherwise occurring in the laundering, washing or other cleaningprocesses. This method is predicated upon the determination that thecauses of shrinkage in a fabric subjected to full laundry treatment aremostly mechanical in effoot. The process is, therefore, adapted tomechanically rearrange the filamentsand to alter the crimp or sinuosityin the yarns of the fabric to the same extent that these filaments wouldrearrange themselves and the yarns would be crimped if subjected to fulllaundry washing.

Basically, this process comprises the steps of determining the change indimension that will take place in the fabric when it is subjected towashing, then mechanically shrinking the fabric down to the dimensionsso indicated, and finally completing the finishing operation withoutdisturbing these dimensions. However, the prior methods of mechanicalshrinking, such as the Sanforizing process, are forced to efiect in asingle treatment a complete shrinkage equal to the ultimate shrinkageobtained by repeated laundering or else the fabric will show anexcessive residual shrinkage. This has many disadvantages for when a lotof goods are finished and come up to warp of a moistened fabric ismaintained under tension while permitting shrinkage of the other yarnsystem, thereby causing the yarns of the lattersystem to take a highlysinuous form under and over alternate tensioned yarns, and thereafterthe yarn system previously maintained under tension is mechanicallycompressed or foreshortened to cause the yarns therein to take a highlysinuous or undulated form about the yarns of the other system, thecompressing of the yarns in the second system to be foreshortenedreduces the sinuosity of the yarns in the first system and thereby tendsto nullify the intended effect of the first stage of the shrinkagetreatment.

Moreover, prior methods of shrinking fabrics have never been entirelysuccessful when the fabric has been composed in whole or in part ofartificial filaments, in particular of cut staple rayon. Owing to theswelling and shrinking which artificial filaments undergo on beingwetted and dried, fabrics made of'such filaments do not retain thecondition produced by the preshrinking operation. However, even withfabrics made of natural fibers, such as cotton, the prior methods ofpreshrinking have not given results which were entirely permanent.

Furthermore, the stresses which-fabrics undergo during wear andlaundering frequently produce objectionable distortions even though suchfabrics have been preshrunk by prior methods.

Therefore, it is desirable to provide fabrics which are characterized byhaving a substantial permanent resistance to distortions of all types inorder to preserve a desired structure, form and character in thetextile.

On the other hand. it is frequently desired to shrinkage so that thefabric will maintain its low as about up to 95% or more of the totalshape and structure during wear and laundering.

Accordingly, it is a general object of the present invention to providean improved stabilized textile having a predetermined structure which ispermanent.

It is another object to provide an improved method for setting andfixing the dimensions of It is a further specific object to preshrinkfabrics comprising artificial filaments, in particular cut staple rayon,and to render the shrunk condition substantially permanent.

Other objects of the invention will in part be obvious and will in partappear hereinafter.

In the practice of the invention; the permanently preshrunk fabrics aremade by weaving weft or filling yarns comprising potentially adhesivefilaments capable of being activated to an adhesive state under certainconditions with warp yarns comprising potentially adhesive filaments ofdifilerent character such that yarns in one or both of the yarn systemsmay be activated selectively in succession or simultaneously,foreshortening or shrinking the yarn systems in succession orsimultaneously as desired, and deactivating the potentially adhesivefilaments in the.

- ments with fibers.

system or systems thus foreshortened in succession or simultaneously tofix the shrunk structure. The shrinkage of the fabric may be partial orcomplete or to any predetermined amount. The expression "shrinking isintended to include all physical or mechanical changes in fiber size,length and crimp and changes in yarn length, crimp and displacement infabrics which produce a decrease in one or more dimensions orcontraction in the fabric.

In the specification and claims the term fila-' ments is intended in thegeneric sense to include both continuous filaments and filaments ofdiscontinuous nature, such as are generally referred to as fibers or"staple fibers."

The invention accordingly comprises a process having the steps and therelation of steps one to another and an article having the elements,relation of elements and the characteristics and properties all ashereinafter described and the scope of the application of which will beexemplified in the claims.

For a more complete understanding of the nature and objects oftheinvention, reference should be had to the accompanying drawing inwhich- I Figure 1 is a cross-section elevation of a fabric beforeshrinkage by the process of the invention;

Figure 2 is a crosssectional elevation of the fabric of Figure 1 aftercontrolled shrinkage in the process of the invention; and

Figure 3 is a cross-section of a fabric after complete shrinkage inaccordance wtih one era-- bodiment of the invention. V

The singles yarn from which the fabrics of the present invention aremade may consists entirely of potentially adhesive filaments, or they 70may comprise a mixture of non-adhesive filaments with the potentiallyadhesive filaments, the proportion of the latter being selected at will,depending upon the characteristics de'siredin the fabric. Theproportions used may range from as weight of the yarn. The yarns mayconsist solely of continuous filaments whether composed entirely ofpotentially adhesive filaments or comprising a mixture thereof withnon-adhesive continuous filaments. The yarns may be made up "entirely ofdiscontinuous filaments ,or fibers, or they may comprise a mixture ofcontinuous fila- The continuous filaments or fibers used, whether theyare non-adhesive or p0- tentlally adhesive, may be either of .natural orartificial origin.

For the non-adhesive textile filament there may be used any suitablenatural or synthetic filaments of textile-making length, such as cotton,flax, jute,'and other vegetable fibers; wool, hair, silk, and otheranimal fibers and filaments; asbestos, glass, mineral wool; alsoartificial filaments formed of cellulose compounds, such as regeneratedcellulose or cellulose hydrate of all kinds, cellulose derivatives, suchas the esters, the ethers, whether soluble in water, alkali or organicsolvents, mixed cellulose ethers, mixed cellulose ester-ethers,hydroxy-alkyl and carboXy-alkyl ethers of cellulose and xanthates of thecellulose ethers, cellulose filaments, thiourethanes, cellulosexanthofatty acids, and filaments formed from natural or synthetic resinsof all kinds, which resinous filaments should be of the type that willnot be rendered tacky under the conditions employed to render thepotentially adhesive filaments tacky.

The potentially adhesive filaments may comprise any thermoplastic orsolvent-plastic synthetio resinous material or cellulosic materialcapable of being formed into filaments which are non-tacky at roomtemperature and have an inherent-tackiness either upon treatment with asolvent which does not render the non-adhesive filaments tacky, or uponheating to a temperature below that at which the non-adhesive textilefilaments a're damaged or rendered tacky: such as the resins formed bythe polymerization of various organic compounds such as cumarone,

indene hydrocarbons, vinyl compounds, styrene,

ments formed fromsynthetic or artificial rubber such as polymerizedbutadiene, olefine-polysulfides, e. g. Thiokol, isobutylene polymers,chloroprene polymers and polyvinyl-halides, e. g. Koroseal filamentsformed from a resin comprising the product of copolymerizing two or moreresins, such, for example, as copolymers of vinyl halide and vinylacetate, co-polymers of vinyl halide and an acrylic acid derivative,also after-chlorinated copolymers of vinyl chloride and vinyl acetate;and also filaments formed from a mixture of resins, such for example asa mixture of vinyl resins and acrylic acid resins or methacrylic acidresins, a mixture of polyolefine resins and phenol-aldehyderesins, or amixture of two or more resins from the different classes just named. Thethermoplastic resins above mentioned may be classified as:

(a) Heat-non convertible resins such as the glycol polybasic acidresins, the vinyl resins, and

the acid type phenolaldehyde resins, and the like.

(b) Heat-convertible or thermosetting resins such as a.glycerol-polybasic acid resin, polyoleiine resins, phenolaldehyde resinsand the like.

(c) An element-convertible resin (which becomes infusible through theaction of certain elements, such as oxygen and sulphur) such asglycerol-polybasic acid-drying oil resins and oleiine sulphur resins.

In addition to the synthetic resins, there may be employed for thepotentially adhesive filament,

a filament formed from a thermoplastic cellulose derivative, such as acellulose ester, a cellulose ether, a mixed cellulose ester-ether, amixed cellulose ether, a hydroxy-alkyl or a carboxy-alkyl ether ofcellulose, a cellulose ether xanthate, or a cellulose thiourethane.Plasticlzers may be included with the cellulose derivative in order toimpart the desired thermoplasticity to the derivative. In particular,the thermoplastic cellulose derivative filament may be a filament ofcellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate or an organic soluble celluloseethyl ether, and the like; also filaments formed from a mixture ofcellulose derivatives and resins such as filaments formed by extruding amixture of cellulose nitrate and an oil soluble phenol-aldehyde resin,or a cellulose acetate and an acrylic acid resin, or an organic solublecellulose ether and a vinyl resin; also filaments formed from polyamideresins such as those formed from polybasic acids and aliphatic diamines(nylon type) either unstretched or prestretched; and filaments formedfrom a natural or synthetic rubber and rubber derivatives.

For the potentially adhesive filament, it is preferred to employ athermoplastic resin filament because the resin filaments as compared tothe cellulose derivative filaments, are tougher and harder, and coolfrom a tacky condition to form tough or pliable products. Moreover, theresin filaments are inert to acids, alkalies and dry cleaning fluids,and are not water-swelling. This latter property prevents distortion ofthe adhesive bond, tends to stabilize the twist and shrinkage of thefabric, and the adhesive is more permanent so that the wet and drytensile strength of the adhesive bond will be substantially the same.Finally, the resin filaments exhibit, particularly when plasticized, ahigh tensile strength and a true elasticity practically as great as thatof natural silk.

The non-adhesive textile filaments and/or the potentially adhesivefilaments may be prestretched filaments. By prestretched filaments" ismeant such as show orientation as the result of stretching aftersubstantial setting or coagulation of the filaments, either as a part ofthe procass of producing the artificial filaments, or as a separateafter-stretching procedure subsequent to the filament-producing process.In such cases the shrinking treatment advantageously includes treatmentwith a suitable chemical reagent or heat eifect a shrinkage of thepr'estretched filaments. The resulting filament-shortening will produceyarn shrinkage and augment the decrease in fabric dimension.

The articles of the invention are fabricated I from at least two typesof yarns at least some of the filaments in each type being potentiallyadhesive.

The mixing of dissimilar fibers in making spun yarns may be carried outin a suitable manner, such as by blending at least two types of fibersbefore and/or during carding, combing, drafting, but before completionof the spinning of the fibers into a singles yarn. Thus the two types offibers may be mixed and fed together into a carding machine; or sliversare made from each type independently and the slivers combined bydrafting and spinning into a yarn. Alternatively, a yarn containing thepotentially adhesive fiber may be twisted or doubled with another yarnof similar type or with a yarn not containing potentially adhesivefibers.

In making continuous filament yarns, one convenient method involvesextruding-two different types of filament-forming materials, throughspinnerets into a suitable coagulating or setting medium and collectingthe two types of continuous filaments in the form of a yarn.'iAlternatively, continuous filaments of a potentially adhesive natureand non-adhesive continuous filaments may be simultaneously unwound fromwound supply packages thereof and may be combined in any desiredproportions into a unitary yarn or cord, which is then wound and/ ortwisted into the desired packages for subsequent use.

The invention is particularly adapted for permanently controlling orfixing a shrunk condition in a fabric comprising two type of yams madefrom two diiferent blends of non-adhesive 25 and potentially adhesivefibers mixed together before the completion of the spinning and/ortwisting of the yarn.

The relative proportions of the non-adhesive textile filaments and ofthe potentially adhesive filaments may be varied in accordance withtheir properties, the nature or treatment, the intended use of thefinished product and the characteristics desired therein. The mixture offilaments may be spun into yarns and threads and fabricated into fabricsin a, known manner. During the weaving of the fabric, however, one typeof yarn comprising potentially adhesive filaments is used in one yarnsystem of the fabric, such as the weft or filling, while for the otheryarn system, such as the warp, thereis used another type of yarncomprisin potentially adhesive filaments which are of such differentcharacter than those in the former yam system that the potentiallyadhesive filaments in the yarns of the two systems 5 may be selectivelyactivated to an adhesive condition at will,

In its broad aspects the process of the inven- 'tion is applicable forpermanently fixing the structures and form of fabrics after they have 50been modified by shrinking.

It is to be understood that the invention is not limited to anyparticular method or apparatus for carrying out the shrinking of thepresent process. Suitable means for carrying out the shrinking op- 55eration involved in the present invention are shown in U. S. PatentsNos. 1,982,720, 1,988,376,

2,021,975, and 2,052,948. By way of illustration,

but not by way Of limiting the invention, the following methods may beemployed for shrinking so fabrics in accordance with the presentinvention:-

I. Stretching a moistened fabric in one dimension while permitting orcontrolling the shrinkage in another dimension. In this embodiment awoven fabric is subjected to moisture and a suitable activating agentpreferably for the yarns in one yarn system only, and thereafterstretched in the direction of the other of its constituent sets of yarnswhether warp or weft, while leaving the activated set free from tensionor under a limited tension and drying and deactivating the fabric whilemaintainin the tension on the other set of yarns. The stretching of theother set of yarns causes a contraction and increased crinkle orundulation of the yarns in the activated set. The shrinking is carriedout while the potentially fidehesive filaments are in a tacky conditionand the 1 adhesive material is rendered non-tacky while the other set ofyarns is maintained under tension. The increased crinkle or shrunkstructure is rendered substantially permanent by the adhesion of thefilaments in the fabric. This method can be used for shrinking wovenfabrics in one dimension.

II. By moistening and stretching the moist fabric in one dimension whilepermitting or controlling the shrinkage of the fabric in the otherdimension whereby the unstretched yarns acquire additional crinkle,activating the more highly undulated yarn system under conditions havingno activation effect on the other yarn system, deactivating and dryingthe fabric while under tension, again moistening the fabric while freeof tension to cause a swelling of the yarns and a consequent shrinkageof the first stretched yarns, applying an activatin agent for the latterset of yarns having no effect upon the first activated set of yarns, andagain drying and deactivating the fabric under pressure, but free oftension. In this embodiment the potentially adhesive filaments in theset of yarns first activated may be formed of a thermosetting resin inthermoplastic state, such as a urea-formaldehyde resin condensed Justbeyond a water-soluble condition, containing a catalyst and activationto an adhesive state and deactivation to an infusible state thereof maybe effected by steam or dry hot gases while the other set of yarns maycomprise an after-chlorinated copolymer of vinyl chloride and vinylacetate which does not soften or become tacky below a temperature of 120C. or higher, the activation of which may be effected by heating to 120C. or higher. Alternatively, the first activated set of yarns maycomprise unplasticized cellulose triacetate filaments which areactivated by acetone while the other set of yarns may comprise filamentsformed of an after-chlorinated copolymer of vinyl chloride and vinylacetate which softens at 150 C., and activation thereof may be performedat that temperature without affecting the cellulose acetate. By thismethod a 45 fabric can be permanently shrunk in two dimensions, and isunaffected by laundering even in boiling water.

III. By moistening and stretching the moist fabric in one dimensionwhile permitting or controlling the shrinkaee of the fabric in the otherdimension, whereby the unstretched yarns acquire additional crinkle,activating under conditions such that the potentially adhesive filamentsin both sets of yarns are rendered adhesive, drying and deactivating thefabric while under tension, again moistening the fabric while free oftension to cause a swelling of the yarns and a consequent shrinkage ofthe first stretched yarns formed of an after-chlorinated copolymer ofvinyl chloride and vinyl acetate having a softening temperature range ofabout 125 C., becoming tacky at 125 C. or above. The first activationmay be performed at about 125 0., while the second may be performed atabout 120 C. By this method, a fabric can be permanently shrunk to anydesired size in two dimensions, and is unaffected by laundering even inboiling water.

IV. By moistening a fabric, mechanically compressing the moistenedfabric along one dimension whereby the yarns acquire additional crinkle,and maintaining the fabric under the compressive pressure while dryingthe fabric. The activation of the potentially adhesive fibers may takeplace simultaneously in both yarn systems before, during or after thedrying step, and the deactivation of the fabric may take place before orafter the drying but in any event while the fabric is maintained in thepre-shrunk condition. This ordinarily accomplishes pre-shrinkage in onedimension. However, it may be applied to woven fabrics so constitutedthat the potentially adhesive filaments in both yarn systems, thoughhaving different susceptibilities to activation, are activatable byheat. and having one system of yarns comprising prestretched filaments,in which case the mechanical compression is exerted upon the other yarnsystem and activation of both yarn systems may be performedsimultaneously with heat at such a temperature that shrinkage of the'prestretched yarns occurs, so that upon deactivation, the fabric ispre-shrunk in both dimensions. One embodiment of suitable means forcarrying out the shrinking in this process is disclosed in U. 8. PatentNo. 1,861,422.

V. By moistening a fabric while maintaining one yarn system undertension and permitting or controlling the shrinkage of the other yarnsystem, that -is, by permitting the other yarns to crinkle, activatingthe potentially adhesive filaments of the more highly crinkled yarnsystem, with or without simultaneously activating the other yarn system,deactivating and drying the fabric while maintaining tension on the oneyarn system, thereafter mechanically compressing the yarn systempreviously maintained under tension 0 to shrink that system byincreasing the yarn crinkle or undulation, then activating only themechanically compressed yarn system and deactivating while the fabric isheld in the com.- pressed condition. One embodiment of suitable meansfor carrying out the shrinking vin this process is disclosed in U. S.Patent No. 1,861,423.

VI. Moistening and stretching the moist fabric in one direction whilepermitting or controlling the shrinkage of the fabric in the otherdimenand simultaneously applying an activating agent sion, whereby theunstretched yarns acquire infor the latter set of yarns having no effectupon the other set of yarns, and again drying and deactivating thefabric, preferably under pressure, but free of tension. In thisembodiment, the potentially adhesive filaments in both sets of yarns maybe thermoplastic, but those in the first stretched set of yarns may beformed of a thermoplastic material having a lower temperature ofsoftening and becoming tacky. For example, those filaments in the firststretched set of yarns may be formed of an after-chlorinated copolymerof vinyl chloride and vinyl acetate having a softening temperature rangeof, and becoming tacky at, about 120 C., while the potentially adhesivefilaments in the other set of yarns may be creased undulation,activating the more undulated yarn system under conditions having noactivation effect on the other yarn system, deactivating and drying thefabric while under tension, again moistening the fabric and stretchingthe remoistened fabric in that dimension not previously stretched whilepermitting or controlling the shrinkage of the fabric in the dimensionfirst stretched, whereby the unstretched yarns acquire increasedundulation, activating the more highly undulated yarns without afiectingthe previously activated yarns, 'andagain drying and de-activating thefabric while maintaining the last stretched set of yarns under tension.

In the mechanical shrinking-treatments described above a chemicalswelling agent may be employed in place of or in addition to water andsuch agent may be used to facilitate rendering the potentially adhesivefilaments tacky by heating when such filaments are thermoplastic.

The shrunk Structure and form given the fabric by the shrinkagetreatments just described may be rendered permanent and the textilestabilized by activating the potentially adhesive filaments in one orboth yarn systems in succession or simultaneously to render them tackybefore, during or after shrinking the fabric, preferably squeezing thefilaments together as by pressing during such activation, anddeactivating the fabric while in the shrunk condition and form to efiecta substantially permanent adhesion between the filaments and to set theyarn relationships.

When the potentially adhesive filaments are of thermoplastic characterthey may be rendered tacky by the use of dry hot air, steam, hot wateror by contact with hot surfaces, with or without the addition of asolvent or plasticizer, and with or without the use of pressure.

While the filaments are in an adhesive condition, the fabric preferablyis subjected to a squeezing or compacting treatment to promote adhesionof the associated filaments at their points of contact as by passing thefabric between pressure rollers. ihe squeezing may be efiected by'themeans employed for mechanically shrinking fabrics as describedhereinafter.

Deactivation may be accomplished by heating to a higher temperature orfor a longer period of time at the temperature or" activation, as in thecase of a heat-convertible resin filament, or by cooling, as in the caseof a thermoplastic resin or cellulose derivative filament.

The difierence between the potentially adhesive filaments in the twoyarn systems may amount to merely the presence of a plasticizer inentirely difierent composition and type may be 50 used. In all cases,the differences in the two types of potentially adhesive filaments usedin the difierent yarn systems are such that the filaments in the yarnsof each system may be selectively activated, without simultaneouslyactivat- 65 ing the filaments of the other system. As is apparent fromthe description hereinabove, both oi the yarn systems may be selectivelyactivated in succession. Alternatively, one of the yarn systems may beselectively activated, and such 60 activation may precede or follow astep of simultaneous activation of both yam systems.

The efiect of the combined shrinking and setting operations of thepresent invention may be illustrated as to one dimension of the fabricby 65 reference to the drawing. The untreated fabric may be representedby Fig. 1, in which the weft yarns i and the warp yarns is show only aslight undulation and the yarns are relatively distant from one anothergiving the fabric a loose, porous 70 appearance. When the fabricisshrunk in one dimension only, for example, by stretching the weftyarns of a pre-moistened fabric, while permitting the lengthwisecontraction, there is produced a product as shown in Fig.

weit yarns I! lie substantially in the same plane, while the warp yarnsare given an increased crinkle and a decreased over all length. Bycontrolling the lengthwise contraction shrinkage to any desired size maybe obtained, and the warp would appear as in Fig. 2.

While the iabric is in the shrunk condition, such as that shown in Fig.3 or in 'Fig. 2, the deactivation of the previously activated adhesivefilaments causes the component filaments of the yarns in one system toadhere to each other. This adherence of the filaments renders permanentthe crinkle imparted to the yarns in that The shrunk condition thusrendered permanent by the deactivation need not be the ultimate weavingcontraction produced by repeated launderings, but may be a shrunkcondition intermediate between that of the untreated fabric and that ofthe ultimate shrinkage after laundering. This efiect is not obtainableby the use of the shrinking operation alone, but only by the use of thecombination of the shrinking with the setting operation of the presentinvention.

If the fabric shown in Fig. 3 be subjected to warpwise shrinkage by anysuitable method as by mechanically compressing the warp yarns lontudinally, the warp yarns are given an increased crinkle thus bringingthe weft yarns closer to each other. As a result of the longitudinalcontraction in the warp and weft yarns, the final product will havesubstantially the structure iilustrated in Fig. 2 in which both seriesof yarns have a substantial crinkle and the yarns lie relatively closetogether in contrast to the untreated fabric.

However, in accordance with method VI above, when both the weft and warpyarns have been selectively activated in succession and each in theconfiguration of Figure 3, there is a tendency in both the weft and thewarp yarn systems of the final fabric (Fig. 2) to return to the morehighly undulated condition shown in Fig. 3. These tendencies in eachyarn system are substantially equal,

so that they work together to resist strongly any external forces orinfluence tending to cause the reversion of the configuration of eitheryam system from that of Figure 2 to that of Figure 1.

Accordingly, the present invention provides inter alia, that a fabricmay be shrunk to a pro determined but not necessarily the ultimateshrunk condition, and such shrunk condition rendered permanent so thatthe fabric neither shrinks nor expands to any substantial extent uponlaundering, dry cleaning or wearing. Thus, the present inventionprovides a method for setting and fixing the dimensions of fabrics in apredetermined manner and for establishing a predetermined and residualshrinkage in textiles and these results maybe obtained in fabrics madefrom artificial filaments, in particular, cut staple rayon, as well asin fabrics made from natural fibers.

Since certain changes in carrying out the above process, and certainmodifications in the article which embody the invention may be madewithout departing from its scope, it is intended that all mattercontained in the above description or shown in the accompanying drawingshall be interpreted as illustrative and not in a limitin sense.

I claim:

1. A process of making a fabric comprising the steps of making at leasttwo types of activatable 3, in which the yarns comprising a mixture ofpotentially adhesive filaments with non-adhesive filaments, thepotentially adhesive filaments of one type of said yarns beingactivatable under conditions which do not activate the other type,weaving a fabric comprising filling and warp yarn systems using one typeof said yarns for one of the yarn systems and the other type for theother yam system, shrinking the fabric in each of the directions of itstwo yarn systems in succession, and stabilizing the fabric structure byrendering the potentially adhesive filaments in each of the two yarnsystems tacky in succession to effect adhesion between filaments in thefabric and thereafter,

rendering the tacky filaments non-tacky.

2. A process of making a fabric comprising the steps of making at leasttwo types of activatable yarns comprising a mixture of potentiallyadhesive filaments with non-adhesive filaments, the potentially adhesivefilaments of one type of said yarns being activatable under conditionswhich do not activate the other type, weaving a fabric comprisingfilling and warp yarn systems using one type of said yarns for one ofthe yarn systems and the other type for the other yarn system, shrinkingthe fabric in the direction of one of its yarn systems, renderingthepotentially adhesive,

filaments only in that yarn system tacky to effect adhesion between thefilaments therein, thereafter rendering said filaments non-tacky, thenshrinking the fabric in the direction of its other yarn system,rendering the potentiallyadhesive filaments in only the latter yarnsystem tacky, and thereafter rendering said tacky filaments non-tacky.

3. A process of making a fabric comprising the steps of making at leasttwo types of activatable yarns comprising a mixture of potentiallyadhesive filaments with non-adhesive filaments, the potentially adhesivefilaments of one type of said yarns being activatable under conditionswhich do not activate the other type, weaving a, fabric comprisingfilling and warp yarn systems using one type of said yarns for one ofthe yarn systems and the other type for the other yarn system, shrinkingthe fabric in the direction of one of its yarn systems, rendering thepotentially adhesive filaments in both yarn systems tacky to effectadhesion between the filaments therein, thereafter rendering saidfilaments non-tacky, than shrinking the fabric in the direction of itsother yarn system, rendering the potentially adhesive filaments in onlythe latter yarn system tacky, and thereafter rendering said tackyfilaments non-tacky.

4. A process of making a fabric comprising the steps of making at leasttwo types of activatable yarns comprising a mixture of potentiallyadhesive filaments with non-adhesive filaments, the potentially adhesivefilaments of one type of said yarns being activatable under condtionswhich do not activate the other type, weaving a fabric comprisingfilling and warp yarn systems using one type of said yarns for one ofthe yarn systems and the other type for the other yarn system, shrinkingthe fabric in the direction of one of its yarn systems, rendering thepotentially adhesive filaments only in that yarn system tacky to effectadhesion between the filaments therein, thereafter rendering saidfilaments non-tacky, then shrinking the fabric in the direction of itsother yarn system, rendering the potentially adhesive filaments in bothyam systems tacky, and thereafter rendering said tacky filamentsnon-tacky.

5. The process for preshrinking a woven fabric comprising two types ofactivatable yarns comprising a mixture of potentially adhesive filaments with non-adhesive filaments, the potentially adhesive filaments inone of the types of yarns being activatable to an adhesive state underconditions which do not activate the potentially adhesive filaments ofthe other type, the warp containing yarns of one type and the fillingcontaining yarns of the other type, which comprises shrinking the fabricin each of the directions of its two yarn systems in succession, andstabilizing the fabric structure by rendering the potentially adhesivefilaments in each of the two yarn systems tacky in succession to effectadhesion between filaments in the fabric and thereafter rendering thetacky filaments non-tacky.

6. The process for preshrinking a woven fabric comprising two types ofactivatable yarns comprising a mixture of potentially adhesive filamentswith non-adhesive filaments, the potentially adhesive filaments in oneof the types of yarns being activatable to an adhesive state underconditions which do not activate the potentially adhesive filaments ofthe other type,.the warp containing yarns of one type and the fillingcontaining yarns of the other type, which comprises shrinking thefabric'in the direction of one of its yarn systems, rendering thepotentially adhesive filaments only in that yarn system tacky to efl'ectadhesion between the filaments therein, thereafter rendering saidfilaments nontacky, then shrinking the fabric in the direction of itsother yarn system, rendering the potentially adhesive filaments in onlythe latter yarn system tacky, and thereafter rendering said tackyfilaments non tacky.

'ljThe process for preshrinking a woven fabric comprising two types ofactivatable yarns comprising a mixture of potentially adhesive fila-.ments with non-adhesive filaments, the potentially adhesive filaments inone of the types of yarns being activatable to an adhesive state underconditions which do not activate the potentially adhesive filaments ofthe other type, the warp containing yarns of one type and the fillingcontaining yarns of the other type. which comprises shrinking the fabricin the direction of one of its yarn systems, rendering the potentiallyadhesive filaments in both yarn systems tacky to effect adhesion betweenthe filaments therein, there- 50 after rendering said filamentsnon-tacky, then shrinking the fabric in the direction of its other yarnsystem, rendering the potentially adhesive filaments in only the latteryarn system tacky,

and thereafter rendering said tacky filaments 5 non-tacky.

8. The process for preshrinking a woven fabric comprising two types ofactivatable yarns comprising a mixture of potentially adhesive filamentswith non-adhesive filaments, the poten- 60 tially adhesive filaments inone of the types of yarns being activatable to an adhesive state underconditions which do not activate the potentially adhesive filaments ofthe other type, the warp containing yarns of one type and the fillingcon- 65 taining yarns of the other type, which comprises shrinking thefabric in the direction of one of its yarn systems, rendering thepotentially adhesive filaments only in that yarn system tacky to effectadhesion between the filaments therein, there- 70 after rendering saidfilaments'non-tacky, then shrinking the fabric in the direction of itsother yam system, rendering the potentially adhesive filaments in bothyarn systems tacky, and thereafter rendering said tacky filamentsnon-tacky. (5 9. A fabric comprising at least two yarn systhe othertypes of yarns, constructing a fabrictemsassociated in fabric structuralrelationship, the yarns in each system comprising a mixture ofnon-adhesive filaments and potentially adhesive filaments, and thepotentially adhesive filaments in the yarns of one system beingactivate.- ble to an adhesive state under conditions under which thoseof the other system are not afiected.

10. A pre-shrunk fabric comprising at least two yarn systems associatedin fabric structural relationship, the yarns in each system comprising amixture of non-adhesive filaments and potentially adhesive filaments,and the potentially adhesive filaments in the yarns of one system beingactivatable to an adhesive state under conditions under which those ofthe other system are not afiected, the pre-shrunk structure of thefabric being rendered substantially permanent by adhesion betweenfilaments in the yarns thereof resultlng from selectively shrinking thetwo systems in succession, and immediately after the shrinkage of eachyarn system selectively rendering tacky some of the potentially adhesivefilaments in the shrunk yarn system.

11. A woven fabric comprising filling and warp yarn systems, the yarnsin each system comprising a mixture of non-adhesive filaments andpotentially adhesive filaments, and the potentially adhesive filamentsin the yarns of one system being activatable to an adhesive state underconditions under which those of the other system are not afiected.

l2.- A rare-shrunk woven fabric comprising filling and warp yarnsystems, the yarn in each systern comprising a mixture of non-adhesivefilaments and potentially adhesive filaments, and the potentiallyadhesive filaments in the yarns of one system being activatable to anadhesive state under conditions under which those of the other systemare not affected, the pre-shrunk structure of the fabric being renderedsubstantially permanent by adhesion between filaments in the yarnsthereof resulting from selectively shrinking the two systems insuccession, and immediately after the shrinkage of each yarn systemselectively rendering tacky some of the potentially adhesive filamentsin the shrunk yarn system.

13. A process of making a fabric comprising at least two sets of yarnscomprising the steps making at least two types of activatable yarnscomprising potentially adhesive filaments, the potentially adhesivefilaments of at least one type of said yarns being activatable to anadhesive state under conditions which do not activate the other types ofyarns, constructing a fabric by associating in fabric structuralrelationship activatable yarns of one type as one yarn set andactivatable yarns of another type as another yarn set, shrinking one setof yarns of the fabric, rendering the potentially adhesive filaments inthe shrunk yarns tacky to efiect adhesion between filaments therein,thereafter rendering said filaments non-tacky, then shrinking the otherset of yarns of the fabric, rendering the potentially adhesive filamentsin the latter yarns only tacky to effect adhesion of filaments therein,and thereafter rendering the tacky filaments in the latter yarnsnon-tacky.

14. A. process of making a fabric comprising at least two sets off yarnscomprising the steps of making at least two types of activatable yarnscomprising a mixture of potentially adhesive fila- -rnents withnon-adhesive textile filaments, the

potentially adhesive filaments of at least one type of said yarns beingactivatable to an adhesive state under conditions which do not activateby associating in fabric structural relationship activatable yarns ofone type as one yarn set and activatable yarns of another type asanother yarn set, shrinking one set of yarns of the fabric, ren- 15. Aprocess of making a fabric comprising the steps of making at least twotypes of activatable yarns comprising potentially adhesive filaments,the potentially adhesive filaments of one type of said yarns beingactivatable under conditions which do not activate the other type,weaving a, fabric comprising filling and warp yarn systems using onetype of said yarns for one of the yarn systems and the other type forthe other yarn system, shrinking the fabric in the direction of one ofits yarn systems, rendering the potentially adhesive filaments in theshrunk yarns tacky to effect adhesion between filaments therein,thereafter rendering said filaments non-tacky, then shrinking the fabricin the direction of its other yarn system, rendering the potentiallyadhesive filaments in the latter yarn. system only tacky to effectadhesion between filaments therein, and thereafter rendering said tackyfilaments in the latter yarn system non-tacky.

16. The process of preshrinking a fabric comprising at least two sets ofyarns, the yarns of each yarn set comprising potentially adhesivefilaments, the potentially adhesive filaments of one yarn set beingactivatable to an adhesive state under conditions which do not activatethe potentially adhesive filaments of the other yarn sets whichcomprises shrinking one set of yarns of the fabric, rendering thepotentially adhesive filaments in the shrunk yarns tackyto effectadhesion between filaments therein, thereafter rendering said filamentsnon-tacky, then shrinking the other set of yarns of the fabric,rendering the potentially adhesive filaments in the latter yarns onlytacky to effect adhesion between filaments therein, and thereafterrendering said tacky filaments non-tacky.

17. The process of preshrinking a fabric comprising at least two sets ofyarns, the yarns of each yarn set comprising a mixture of potentiallyadhesive filaments with non-adhesixe textile filaments, the potentiallyadhesive filaments of one yarn set being activatable to an adhesivestate under conditions which do not activate the potentially adhesivefilaments of the other yarn sets which comprises shrinking one set ofyarns of the fabric, rendering the potentially adhesive filaments in theshrunk yarns tacky to efiect adhesion between filaments therein,thereafter rendering said filaments non-tacky, then shrinking the otherset of yarns of the fabric, rendering the potentially adhesive filamentsin the latter yarns only tacky, and thereafter rendering said tackyfilaments in the latter yarns non-tacky.

13. The process for preshrinking a woven fabric comprising two types ofactivatable yarns comprising potentially adhesive filaments, thepotentially adhesive filaments in one of the yp s of yarns beingactivatable to an adhesive state under conditions which do not activatethe potentially adhesive filaments of the other type, the

warp containing yarns of one type and the filling containing yarns ofthe other type. which comprises shrinking the fabric in the direction ofone of its yarn systems, rendering the potentially adthen shrinking thefabric in the direction of its other yarn system, rendering thepotentially adhesive filaments in the latter yarn system only tacky, andthereafter rendering said tacky filahesive filaments in the shrunk yarnsystem tacky 5 ments in the latter yarn system non-tacky.

to effect adhesion between filaments therein, thereafter rendering saidfilaments non-tacky,

CARL A. CASTELLAN.

